Off to Kyushu on wheels

(for Wednesday September 21)

The typhoon, which is causing mayhem further north, continued to deliver rain to Osaka so we resigned ourselves to the fact that we were going to get wet but decided that we'd put it off for as long as possible.  We went by subway to Umeda Station, left our packs in a coin locker and paid another visit to the Food Hall of the Hanshin Department store which we found so delightful last time we visited.  The quality and variety of food on display really is amazing! 

Perfect specimens of grapes and rockmelon - 10 500 yen (about $140)

Little cakes too good to eat!

We couldn’t resist, so we had an early lunch; curry udon noodles for John and a curry-filled bread for me.  We had a minor moment of panic when we couldn't find the right corridor in the railway station to get back to the coin lockers but John's navigation skills got us there in the end.  If it had been up to me, we'd still be wandering round the railway station with no bags.  That problem solved, we went back out into the street to find that the rain was still falling, but had eased a little.  As we had a ferry to catch, we decided to collect the scooters and get to the terminal, rain or no rain.  We signed the necessary papers, loaded up our baggage, wiped down the wet scooter seats and started the engines  - and then it stopped raining!  Along the way we saw the unique litter that accompanies typhoons – several mangled, inside-out umbrellas and the odd umbrella cover were either in the middle of intersections (somewhat dangerous for scooter riders!) or in the gutters.  For a bit of comic relief, we saw a car yard called Tomato Club.  Not quite as amusing as the Ultra Potato car yard that John saw on a previous trip, but close!  Maybe there’s a whole vegetable soup of car yards??  After a few wrong turns, we made it to the ferry terminal.

The Sunflower Ferry

We were too early to collect our tickets so we had a browse around the building.  

What the ...??

 

Well, I don't think it's what I'd call my shop if I had one!

We pessimistically bought some seasickness tablets (yoi dome - pronounced “yo ee doh meh” for the benefit of anyone who might need such a thing in Japan).  Although the trip is through the Inland Sea, we thought that the typhoon might create a bumpy ride.

Having been told that the restaurant meals on the ferry were too expensive, once we’d organised the ferry tickets, we bought a couple of packaged meals from the Lawsons convenience store to take on board.  While we were waiting on the scooters to go on board, a motor bike pulled up next to us, ridden by a very attractive young lady in a black helmet with a row of diamantes around the edge of the visor.  Quite a sight!!

Once we’d found our cabin, which was basic but perfectly adequate for its purpose, we went out on deck, ate our Lawsons meals and hoped that the yoi dome would work its magic.  By the time the ferry pulled out of the dock, it was dark, so we had the most spectacular view of the lights of Osaka.  It really was stunning. 

Goodbye Osaka - we're off!

Once we left the lights behind we took a stroll around the boat’s facilities and discovered that the restaurant meals were very reasonably priced so the convenience store meals were unnecessary – but that’s OK, we’ve still got the return trip.  After a while, we passed under the bridge to Awajishima, which looks gorgeous at night.  This bridge is the longest suspension bridge in the world.  Unfortunately, the camera can’t do it justice so a ‘borrowed’ picture will have to suffice. 

Awajishima Bridge

 (photo: PakWheels.com)

We were delighted to find that the ferry is incredibly stable and we hardly noticed any movement at all.  After a soak in the communal (but gender-segregated) baths on board, we headed for bed. 

The things you find in convenience stores!

Our mission for today was to find a motorcycle helmet for John.  He discovered on our last trip that the helmets that come with the rental scooters don’t fit him properly, so we needed to find a comfortable alternative.  Osaka has a whole section of a main road that consists of nothing but motorcycle shops (groans and rolls eyes) so after our 200 yen breakfast we bought an all-day subway pass and went helmet hunting.

We found this at a convenience store along the way.  Yes, it IS a boiled egg in a cardboard box!

Before we reached our goal, we said ‘konnichiwa’ to a man standing outside a hotel.  He invited us in to see a free concert which was about to start.  We asked him why it was free and he said that because of the rain, they did not have a full house and wanted to fill the seats.  It sounded like a good opportunity to see some Japanese entertainment (and have a sit down), so we deferred the helmet hunt and went in.

In the foyer we were given a bag of sweets and a fruit drink each.  The first performance was by a man who sang about Japan’s earthquake/tsunami disaster, accompanied by a taiko (big drum) and an electric guitar.  The audience appeared to be quite moved and I noticed a few people dabbing at their eyes and noses.  After their performance, the MC came back on and did a few magic tricks and then a lovely Japanese lady in a gorgeous tulle-draped spangly white dress performed some songs which I think were love songs.  After a few more magic tricks from the MC, the show was over and our helmet hunt resumed.

John enjoyed looking at the vast array of bikes but when we told a young man in one of the shops that we were wanting an inexpensive helmet, he said that theirs were all quite expensive and gave us directions to a couple of discount variety shops which sell helmets.  The first shop was called “Japan”.  I was so pleased that we found itby ourselves, because I didn’t fancy asking anyone “can you tell me where Japan is?”  They had a helmet which was OK, but we decided to take the subway to the other shop in case they had more of a range.  By the time we got there, my feet were killing me.  Fortunately they has some ladies shoes on special so I was able to change out of my boots and set my poor squashed toes free!

John found a $35 helmet which will see him through the scooter trip - and will hopefully perform its function if necessary.
 

                                                This is NOT the helmet that John chose

We subwayed back to the hotel for a nanna nap and to do some laundry before setting off on one of our favourite activities – the nightly excursion for dinner.

 

Having a drink while waiting for dinner to arrive

After dinner we went to look at Spa World which is a complex with several floors of exotic public baths.  We collect the scooters tomorrow so we’re crossing our fingers that the weather will clear up as forecast.

The view from our hotel window - including Christian Church

One of the Spa World baths

Back in Osaka again

Yeah!! We’re finally in Osaka!! When we landed it was 30 degrees and very humid.  By the time we’d gone through all the formalities, found an ATM, caught the train into Tennoji Station and checked into the hotel, we were feeling pretty worn out. 

A group of young Japanese guys busking near Tennoji station.  They were pretty good!

After resting and freshening up, I looked out the window and saw that the rain was pelting down.   We borrowed a couple of umbrellas from the hotel and made our way around to the little diner that we visited last time we were here.  To our great surprise, the lady in the shop remembered us and this time I was able to have quite a decent conversation in my dodgy Japanese and her dodgy English.  The meal, which cost 1320 yen ($16.85) for the two of us, was delicious and filling.  We topped it off with an icecream from the convenience store and then set off for a walk – and got lost.  Or misplaced.  Whatever it was, it made my feet hurt, but we stumbled across a great little maze of shops and eateries so it was an interesting way to spend our first evening.  Once we finally conceded that we were, um, lost, we caught the next subway train back to ‘our’ station and found our way.  We did a quick lap through the 100 yen store ( a compulsory activity when visiting Japan) and finally plodded back into the hotel. 

The upcoming weather doesn’t seem to be as bad as previously predicted, so the scooter trip may not be as soggy as we’d thought.  I’m off to the communal (ladies only) bath in a minute to further the local experience.  We’re off to the motorcycle shops tomorrow to try to find a helmet that fits a foreigner’s head.

Hong Kong - the long way round

Our trip got off to an amusing start, when the young lady at the Adelaide Airport Hungry Jacks asked John if he was eligible for a seniors card!! 

As our fortnight of malfunctions followed us on to the plane, we were quite relieved to arrive in Melbourne safely.  Our horror fortnight at home started semi-power failure, a gas supply malfunction, a water supply issue, an overheating car engine and a mangled lawn mower.  I was a bit reluctant to get on the plane under the circumstances.  Then our friendly pilot came over the PA to tell us the engine starting system was not functioning properly so he’d have to do a ‘non-standard’ start, which was achieved by starting one engine and then getting the other to start from that one.  I ask myself why he had to tell us that.  Sometimes ignorance really is bliss!  Anyway, we got in the air and then found that the in-flight entertainment system was not working.  After several reboots, it finally got going when we were almost in Melbourne.  After a brief stopover in the transit area, we were on our way again with fingers crossed.

The next leg, from Melbourne to Hong Kong was on the same dodgy plane – another ‘non-standard’ start.  But the flight was as smooth as can be and we touched down in Hong Kong on time and in one piece.  We had a taste of rather unhelpful customer service when checking in to the Airport Hotel which had been booked for us by Cathay Pacific.  Half an hour for a basic check in!  If we offered that kind of service at work, we’d be rightfully sacked.

So it’s been a long day, but the excitement is starting to set in. We’ll be in Japan tomorrow and the adventure will begin!

Aaagh! Now the pressure's on!!

We have been receiving some assistance from a very kind and helpful B&B owner, Mr Yamaguchi, on the Goto Islands, who has contacted various hotels, inns etc. on our behalf to make enquiries and bookings.  One inn owner rejected us because we're foreigners, but Mr Yamaguchi told them it's OK because I can speak Japanese. I think he left out the 'very basic' part.  Eek!  I hope they don't want to discuss politics or philosophy!

 I now have about 4 weeks left to try to cram as much Japanese into my head as I can.  Nothing like a bit of pressure to make me sit and study hard.

Change of plans!

As we suspected, Cathay Pacific has changed our flight times, which I discovered when I went to their website to check the current situation.  We were scheduled to leave Hong Kong before we got there!!  After an exchange of emails, we are now being put up at the Regal Airport Hotel in Hong Kong (breakfast included) at Cathay's expense and will leave Hong Kong at about 10.00am instead of 1.00am.  We'll still get to Osaka on the original day, but in the afternoon instead of the morning - and we get to sleep in a bed rather than attempting to sleep on the plane (never works for me!).  So we're back on track and all is well.

Counting down

Time, as it does, is tearing along at a rapid pace and we now have only 11 weeks until we leave for Japan. John has found a little countdown timer which he has displayed on his computer, so we get a daily update of days remaining.

The troubled Fukushima nuclear power plant is still in trouble, but as we are only going to the south of Japan, we have no concerns about that. I'm a bit more apprehensive about the fact that Japan's most active volcano, Mt. Aso, is part of our sightseeing plan! I'm not sure if we can outrun a volcanic eruption on our little scooters. The upside of the tectonic activity in Kyushu is the vast number of hot springs. My aching body is already looking forward to being boiled in an onsen.

My Japanese language has progressed a little since our last visit and I hope to practice with the locals - but I know that my lack of self-confidence makes me resort to English at the drop of a hat.

I got our International Drivers Licences yesterday. As they only last a year, we needed new ones, which pleased me greatly as I had the most hideous photo in last year's version.

We are crossing our fingers about the flights, as Cathay Pacific have cut their daily flights from Hong Kong to Osaka back to only one or two flights a week until the end of August. We won't know for a few weeks if our flights are going ahead.

Well that's it for today - back to the Japanese homework!